Watercolor pencils occupy a fascinating middle ground in the art supply world. They look like colored pencils. They feel like colored pencils. You can sharpen them, layer them, and blend them exactly like colored pencils. But add water, and they transform into watercolor paint — flowing, blending, and creating washes that no dry medium can replicate.
This dual nature makes watercolor pencils one of the most versatile tools available to artists. They’re portable (no jars of water or palettes required in the field), forgiving (you can see exactly where the color will go before activating it), and accessible to anyone who’s comfortable holding a pencil.
Whether you’re a colored pencil artist curious about adding watercolor effects, a watercolorist looking for more precision, or a complete beginner choosing your first medium, this guide covers everything you need to know.
How Watercolor Pencils Work
At their core, watercolor pencils are colored pencils made with a water-soluble binder instead of the wax or oil binder used in traditional colored pencils.
In a standard colored pencil, pigment is suspended in a wax or oil matrix. When you draw, the friction of the pencil against paper deposits thin layers of this waxy/oily pigment. The binder holds the pigment in place and is resistant to water.
In a watercolor pencil, the pigment is bound with a gum arabic or similar water-soluble compound. When you draw, the mark looks and feels similar to a regular colored pencil. But when you brush water over it, the binder dissolves, releasing the pigment and allowing it to flow, blend, and behave like watercolor paint.
This means you can use watercolor pencils in three fundamentally different ways:
- Dry on dry — Use them exactly like colored pencils, with no water at all
- Dry then wet — Draw with the pencil, then activate with water afterward
- Wet on wet — Wet the paper first, then draw into the wet surface for soft, diffused marks
Each approach produces dramatically different results, giving you enormous creative flexibility from a single tool.
Essential Supplies
The Pencils
Obviously, you need watercolor pencils. We’ll cover specific brands in detail below, but a set of 24–36 colors is ideal for beginners. Smaller sets (12 colors) are usable but limiting, especially since you can’t mix watercolor pencils on a palette the way you’d mix tube watercolors.
Brushes
You’ll need at least one round watercolor brush for activating the pencil marks. A size 6 or 8 round brush is the most versatile starting point — large enough to cover reasonable areas but pointed enough for detail work. Synthetic brushes work fine; you don’t need expensive sable for watercolor pencil work.
A water brush (a brush with a built-in water reservoir in the handle) is extremely convenient, especially for plein air work. Brands like Pentel, Sakura, and Derwent all make good water brushes. Sakura Koi watercolor review
Paper
Paper choice matters tremendously. You need watercolor paper — at minimum 200 gsm (90 lb), ideally 300 gsm (140 lb). The paper must handle water without buckling, pilling, or disintegrating.
Cold press watercolor paper (with a moderate texture) is the most versatile. The texture holds dry pencil marks well and also handles wet activation beautifully. Hot press (smooth) paper works for detailed, precise work but can cause puddles in wet techniques. Rough paper is generally too textured for pencil work.
Canson Montval 300 gsm is an excellent intermediate choice. For professional work, any 100% cotton watercolor paper will serve you well. Canson paper review
Other Useful Supplies
- Paper towels or cloth — For blotting excess water and cleaning brushes
- Masking tape — To tape paper edges and prevent buckling
- Pencil sharpener — A good sharpener is essential; keep points sharp for detail work
- White gel pen or white gouache — For adding highlights after watercolor washes dry
Fundamental Techniques
Technique 1: Dry Layering
The simplest approach — use your watercolor pencils exactly like colored pencils. No water involved. Layer colors on top of each other, build up value gradually, and blend by overlapping strokes.
This technique is ideal when you want precision and control. Architectural details, fine textures like fur or hair, and intricate patterns are often easier to render dry. You can always selectively activate certain areas with water later, leaving others dry for contrast.
Tips for dry layering:
- Use light pressure for initial layers and gradually increase
- Layer lighter colors over darker ones for luminosity
- Cross-hatch at different angles for smoother blending
- Keep pencils sharp for detail work, dull for broad coverage
Technique 2: Dry on Dry, Then Activate
This is the most common watercolor pencil technique and the one most beginners learn first. You draw your subject with dry pencils on dry paper, then go over the marks with a wet brush to activate the pigment.
The key to success is water control. Too much water and your carefully placed colors will flood and merge into mud. Too little water and the pigment won’t fully activate, leaving a patchy, half-dissolved look.
Step-by-step:
- Draw your subject with watercolor pencils, pressing firmly enough to deposit a good amount of pigment
- Load your brush with clean water — then touch it to a paper towel to remove excess
- Brush over the pencil marks using smooth, directional strokes
- Work in sections, cleaning your brush between color areas to avoid contamination
- Let each section dry before working on adjacent areas (to prevent unwanted bleeding)
Tips:
- Work from light areas to dark — light colors activated first won’t stain your brush as much
- You can re-draw and re-activate multiple times for richer color
- Leave some areas unactivated for texture contrast
- The pencil marks will become slightly lighter when activated (the pigment spreads out)
Technique 3: Wet on Dry
Wet the pencil tip or the brush, then draw on dry paper. This creates a more intense, saturated line that’s already partially activated. It’s excellent for bold outlines, dark accents, and areas where you want maximum color intensity.
You can also pick up pigment directly from the pencil tip with a wet brush, using the pencil almost like a paint pan. Touch the wet brush to the exposed core of the pencil, load the brush with dissolved pigment, and paint with it. This gives you more control over dilution and flow than activating dry marks.
Technique 4: Wet on Wet
Wet the paper first with clean water, then draw into the damp surface. The pencil marks will spread and soften immediately, creating diffused, atmospheric effects similar to wet-on-wet watercolor painting.
This technique is harder to control but produces beautiful results for backgrounds, skies, soft-focus elements, and impressionistic effects. The wetter the paper, the more the marks will spread. Practice on scrap paper to learn how much spread to expect.
Technique 5: Sgraffito and Lifting
Once a watercolor pencil wash has dried, you can scratch through it with a craft knife or the end of a brush to reveal white paper beneath — a technique called sgraffito. This is effective for fine white details like whiskers, light rays, or texture.
You can also lift dried pigment by rewetting it and blotting with a paper towel or clean brush. This works best on cotton watercolor paper and is useful for creating soft highlights and corrections.
Technique 6: Masking
Apply masking fluid to areas you want to keep white before drawing with watercolor pencils. After activating and drying, remove the masking fluid to reveal clean white paper. This is the same technique used in traditional watercolor painting and it works just as well with watercolor pencils.
Best Watercolor Pencil Brands
Faber-Castell Albrecht Durer
Colors available: 120
Price tier: Professional
Pigment quality: Excellent
Water solubility: Very good
The Albrecht Durer line is widely considered the best watercolor pencil on the market. The pigments are highly concentrated and lightfast, the cores are strong (resistant to breaking), and the water solubility is exceptional — they activate fully and cleanly with water.
The 120-color range is extensive and thoughtfully curated. Skin tones, botanical greens, and atmospheric blues are particularly well represented. The pencils sharpen to a fine point and hold it well, enabling detailed dry work before activation.
Best for: Professional artists, serious hobbyists, anyone who wants the best available quality. Faber-Castell brand page
Faber-Castell Goldfaber Aqua
Colors available: 48
Price tier: Mid-range
Pigment quality: Good
Water solubility: Good
The Goldfaber Aqua is Faber-Castell’s mid-range watercolor pencil. It uses the same hexagonal barrel and overall design as the Albrecht Durer but with student-grade pigments. The colors are slightly less vibrant and the lightfastness ratings are lower, but the performance is still very good for the price.
Best for: Intermediate artists who want Faber-Castell quality at a more accessible price point.
Lyra Rembrandt Aquarell
Colors available: 72
Price tier: Professional
Pigment quality: Very Good
Water solubility: Excellent
Lyra’s Rembrandt Aquarell line is a hidden gem that doesn’t get the recognition it deserves. The water solubility is among the best in the market — these pencils dissolve almost instantly with water, creating rich, fluid washes that rival tube watercolors.
The triangular barrel is comfortable for extended drawing sessions. The core is thick (4mm) and soft, which makes dry layering feel creamy and responsive. The trade-off is that you’ll sharpen more frequently, and fine detail work is harder than with firmer pencils.
Best for: Artists who prioritize the watercolor side of watercolor pencils — those who want maximum paint-like behavior after activation. Lyra brand page
Derwent Watercolour
Colors available: 72
Price tier: Professional
Pigment quality: Very Good
Water solubility: Good
Derwent’s Watercolour pencils are a classic choice with a slightly different character. They’re firmer than the Lyra and produce more textured, grainy marks when dry. Activation is good but not as instant as the Lyra or Faber-Castell — you sometimes need a bit more water or a second pass to fully dissolve the pigment.
The color range includes some unique shades you won’t find in other brands, particularly in the earth tones and dark values. The round barrel is comfortable, and the pencils are well-built.
Best for: Artists who split their time evenly between dry and wet techniques and want a pencil that performs well in both modes.
Staedtler Karat Aquarell
Colors available: 60
Price tier: Mid-range
Pigment quality: Good
Water solubility: Good
Staedtler’s Karat Aquarell is a dependable mid-range option. German engineering shows in the consistent quality and break-resistant core. The colors are clean and well-organized, and activation with water is smooth.
Best for: Students and hobbyists who want reliable quality without the professional price tag.
Watercolor Pencils Comparison Table
| Feature | Faber-Castell Albrecht Durer | Lyra Rembrandt Aquarell | Derwent Watercolour | Staedtler Karat |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Colors | 120 | 72 | 72 | 60 |
| Core size | 3.8mm | 4mm | 3.4mm | 3mm |
| Solubility | Very Good | Excellent | Good | Good |
| Dry performance | Excellent | Very Good | Very Good | Good |
| Lightfastness | Excellent | Very Good | Very Good | Good |
| Barrel shape | Round | Triangular | Round | Round |
| Price (per pencil) | $2.00–$3.00 | $1.80–$2.50 | $1.50–$2.50 | $1.00–$1.80 |
| Best for | Professionals | Wet-focused artists | Balanced dry/wet | Students |
Common Mistakes Beginners Make
- Using the wrong paper. Regular drawing paper will buckle, pill, and warp when you add water. Always use watercolor paper rated at least 200 gsm. Canson paper review
- Too much water. The most common activation mistake. Start with a damp brush, not a dripping one. You can always add more water; you can’t take it back.
- Not laying down enough pigment. Watercolor pencil marks lighten when activated because the pigment spreads. Press firmer than you think you need to — the activated wash should be the target intensity, not the dry mark.
- Working too fast. Let each area dry completely before working on adjacent areas. Wet paint from one section will bleed into the next if you’re not patient.
- Expecting tube watercolor behavior. Watercolor pencils produce beautiful washes, but they don’t behave identically to tube or pan watercolors. Embrace the medium’s unique qualities — the ability to combine dry precision with wet fluidity — rather than trying to replicate pure watercolor painting.
- Ignoring dry techniques. Many beginners activate everything with water, losing the beautiful dry pencil textures. The most compelling watercolor pencil art combines wet washes in some areas with dry, detailed pencil work in others.
Watercolor Pencils vs. Other Media
Watercolor Pencils vs. Traditional Watercolors
Watercolor pencils offer more control and precision for detail work. Traditional watercolors (tubes or pans) offer richer color saturation, better wet-on-wet behavior, and more fluid washes for large areas. Many artists use both — watercolor pencils for foreground details and traditional watercolors for backgrounds and large areas.
Watercolor Pencils vs. Colored Pencils
If you never plan to use water, standard colored pencils (wax or oil-based) are generally better. They layer more smoothly, have richer dry pigmentation, and don’t have the slightly chalky feel that some watercolor pencils exhibit when used dry. But if you want the option of adding water effects, watercolor pencils give you both worlds.
Watercolor Pencils vs. Alcohol Markers
These are fundamentally different tools. Alcohol markers are for vibrant, flat color fills and smooth blending. Watercolor pencils are for textured, luminous, water-activated effects. They complement each other beautifully — try using watercolor pencils for backgrounds and alcohol markers for foreground subjects. Best alcohol markers buyer guide
Frequently Asked Questions
Can watercolor pencils be used without water?
Absolutely. Watercolor pencils work perfectly well as standard colored pencils when used dry. The main difference is that their dry marks have a slightly different feel compared to wax-based or oil-based colored pencils — some artists find them slightly chalky or less smooth. But for most purposes, they’re indistinguishable from regular colored pencils when used dry.
How do watercolor pencils compare to watercolor pans like Sakura Koi?
Watercolor pencils and watercolor pans serve different purposes. Pans like the Sakura Koi set excel at broad washes, wet blending, and traditional watercolor techniques. Watercolor pencils excel at precise mark-making, controlled detail, and the ability to combine dry and wet techniques in a single piece. Many artists carry both — a small watercolor pan set for washes and a handful of watercolor pencils for details. Sakura Koi watercolor review
What’s the best paper for watercolor pencils?
Cold press watercolor paper at 300 gsm (140 lb) is the most versatile choice. It has enough texture to hold dry pencil marks and enough weight to handle water without buckling. Canson Montval 300 gsm is an excellent mid-range option. For professional work, any 100% cotton cold press paper will perform beautifully. Canson paper review
Are Faber-Castell Albrecht Durer watercolor pencils worth the price?
For serious artists, yes. The pigment quality, lightfastness, and water solubility are noticeably superior to mid-range and budget options. The 120-color range is the largest available, and the pencils are well-built with break-resistant cores. If you plan to sell or exhibit your work, the lightfastness ratings alone justify the investment. For practice and learning, a mid-range option like Staedtler Karat or Faber-Castell Goldfaber Aqua is more than adequate.
Can I use watercolor pencils with other media?
Yes, watercolor pencils are excellent mixed-media tools. Common combinations include watercolor pencils over dried watercolor washes (for adding detail), watercolor pencils under colored pencils (wet wash base with dry detail on top), and watercolor pencils combined with ink (pen outlines with pencil color fills). They also work alongside pastels, gouache, and acrylic, though testing compatibility on scrap paper is always recommended.
